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Fishing Tips

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17

Using marker bouys on points

Bass, and probably other gamefish, congregate along points, and especially cover and secondary structure along the points. The system is simple, takes a couple of minutes to set up, and you can spend a few hours fishing one point a nd catching serious amounts of bass.

First, determine the points. In early spring and late fall, find steep sloping points, while long, slow-sloping points are generally better from late-spring to early fall. A good topo or bathymetric map, or GPS map will show these. Once you've chosen the point, begin to go over it with your depth finder. Look for tell-tale fish arches, or baitfish schools, to determine where you should start. Whatever your target depth, toss a marker bouy a few feet shallower on the main point. Work along the point until you come to the first big drop off into deep water, then toss a marker bouy a few feet deeper on the main point. These two markers should be the same color. While you're scouting the point, when you see a key piece of cover, something different in the bottom structure, or something interesting, throw a different colored marker bouy near it.

Begin by lining up along the point, starting shallow, and fan casting the entire point. Work deeper, then shallower. Use repeated casts from different angles at all key pieces of cover and secondary structure. Crankbaits are good to use for scouting lures, and once you find the bass, pick the area apart with a variety of presentations.

It could literally take you 4 hours to fish a decent point, and I've pulled as many as two dozen keepers off one point from all different depths. Remember to use the proper color, based on conditions, forage and activity level, and the proper depth for your crankbaits. If the point drops from, say, 7 feet down to 13 feet, cast the shallow end with a crankbait that dives to 9 or 10 feet, and then work the deeper end with a crankbait that'll dive to 15 feet. Stay with it, and you'll find the bass.

Topics: Points, marker, bouy
10

Culling Systems

Just a quick note - If you fish in tournaments or for whatever reason need to cull out fish, I've found that the Bass Pro Shops digital fish scale and culling system is the easiest to use. It comes with a digital scale and color-coded fish markers, as well as a waterproof log and wax pencil to keep track of your catches.

Using the scale is simple, then just clip on one of the lip clips and write down the weight of the fish. Then, when you catch and weigh another fish, you know exactly which color to grab to cull out and replace in the log. From start to finish weighing, logging and tagging a fish takes about 10-15 seconds, so you can still make the most of your time on the water.

Topics: Cull, tag, weigh
13

Color-coding your rods

This may just be overthinking common sense, but if you have a lot of rods rigged differently, and keep them stored in a rod locker, I've found that color-coding to identify which is which saves a lot of time searching or trying to remember what rods go where.

The system is simple - put a small piece of colored electrical tape (different colors for each type)on each rod near the handle, and make a small laminated chart that you can stick to the inside cover of the rod locker to identify the rods. Some examples:

Red = Crankbait
Green = Spinnerbait
Blue = Flippin'
Orange = Jigs/worms
etc., etc., etc.

Find a system that works for you and help get yourself organized. For fun fishing, it isn't such a big deal, but to make the most of your time on the water, and especially for tournament fishing, if you can spare yourself the time and frustration of digging for a rod, the better the day will go.

Topics: Rod, Colorcoded
9

Anglers Edge Plus

Just a quick props for a handy little product - I have on my boat an Angler's Edge Plus by Speedtech. It's cool - it tells you about the weather, future predicitions based on the barometric pressure, and when the peak times are to fish. Maybe you don't put a lot of stock in it, but if you can do something that gives you a little bit of an edge, this is definitely worth the money.

check out www. speedtech.com and see all the details - it works great, and I've found it to be very accurate.

10

Scents - or lack thereof

Ask 10 anglers how they feel about scents (spray, liquid and grease), and you'll get 10 different answers. I have a few, and I use them from time-to-time, and to be honest I haven't notice a difference if I use them or not. I think the more important thing is to MASK scents that could cause problems.

Human odor, cigarettes, oils, virtually anything not natural has been shown to be a repellant to fish, especially bass and trout. Make sure to keep your hands clean and free of offensive scents, and I think you'll benefit more than spending $100 on different scents.

I use unscented wipes, Berkley's Odor Shark, and after catching a bass I just rinse off my hands in the lake water. Instead of grabbing the lure to remove hooks, I use pliers to take out the hooks, in order to try keeping my hands off the lures.

Topics: Scents, smells, odor
10

Runnin N Gunnin

There's something to be said for standing on a bank and fishing while relaxing, or trolling along a lake, but most of the time, I prefer to "run n' gun". Basically, this means constantly moving and going from place to place at adecent pace while using reaction or fast-moving baits. You won't catch 20-30 fish (usually), but the 7 or 10 that you do get are usually the 7 or 10 most aggressive fish.

The key is to find an area that will likely produce, like a point, weedbed, or are with lots of different cover and structure, and have a few rods rigged up - medium crankbait, deep crankbait and a spinnerbait. Work through the area, not stopping, and moving from spot-to-spot while making casts along the structure and to cover.

If you do this every time, you get worn out quickly, but if you only have a few hours to be on the water, this is a great way to make the most of it.

11

Mono vs. Fluorocarbon

OK, I'll start by saying I don't know a lot about braid or the superlines, because I've never used them. There may be applications where braid or another superline work better than mono or fluorocarbon, but I'm afraid to leave my "line comfort zone". Here's a little breakdown of the differences between mono and fluorocarbon (from manufacturer specs and my experience):

MONOFILAMENT
• Limp
• Low Memory
• Good Strength vs. Diameter
• Considerable Stretch
• Low Sensitivity
• Good Abrasion Resistance
• Good Knot Strength
• Low Visibility
• Floats


FLOUROCARBON
• Stiff
• Moderate Memory
• Good Strength vs. Diameter
• Low Stretch
• Very Good Sensitivity
• High Abrasion Resistance
• Good Knot Strength
• Very Low Visibility
• Sinks

PLASTICS/JIGS/TUBES
• Fluorocarbon Is Best
• Monofilament Is OK

CRANKBAITS (SHALLOW, MEDIUM, DEEP)
• Fluorocarbon Is Best
• Monofilament Is OK

LIPLESS CRANKBAITS
• Monofilament Is Best
• Fluorocarbon Is OK

SPINNERBAITS/BUZZBAITS
• Monofilament Is Best
• Fluorocarbon Is OK

SWIMBAITS
• Fluorocarbon Is Best
• Monofilament Is OK

TOPWATERS
• Monofilament Is Best
• Fluorocarbon Is Not Recommended (Sinks)

I hope this helps, as I have found that having the differences laid out for me really helps to understand the little nuances each style of line has. Remember to use the smallest line that is practical and it's worth it to spend a little extra - paying $9.99 for good line vs. paying $2.99 for store-brand line and losing a handful of $5 lures makes no sense.

Topics: Line, Fluorocarbon, Mono
8

Rod, reel line selection

OK, back to basics. I know I posted a tip about making sense of rods & reels and making things less complicated. Absolutely an essential part of fishing. This year I've been doing some experimenting with my tackle, and I've gotten to this point:

7' MH baitcast with 12 lb. mono for bigger worms, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, lipless crankbaits, and topwaters

7' M baitcast with 12 lb. fluorocarbon for crankbaits, swimbaits, jigs, and tubes

6'6" M spinning with 8 lb. mono for worms, spoons, spinners, and all finesse tactics

I hope my homework helps you out, and as I test more ideas I'll post them to help get things going. Just remember, do what you find works well, and never stop experimenting and learning!

Topics: Rods, Reels, lines
8

Keep those rod reels covered

Sounds simple, and maybe I'm just making a big deal over nothing, but rods & reels are expensive - and can be a lasting investment if you take care of them. Reel oil, grease and cleaning aside, I keep my rods covered by Bass Pro Shops rod socks while in the boat and for winter storage, and I use Bass Pro Shops reel covers during the wintertime. For $7.98 I can keep each rod & reel protected and in good condition all year long.

Topics: Rod, reel, cover, protection
15

Go Silent

OK, so if you haven't figured out by my catches, I'm a big crankbait guy. I love to fish crankbaits and cover a lot of water - runnin' and gunnin' can be very fun, or very frustrating, depending on how you look at it. Anyway, there are times, through trial and error, that a silent approach is better than a standard "rattle-y" approach. If you're throwing crankbaits in every direction and at all the cover you can see, and you're still not getting bit, switch to a non-rattling or silent crankbait. Sometimes just the little difference in noise makes all the difference.

If you're wondering, I fish with Strike King Pro Model Series 1-6, and the Silent Stalker versions of the same sizes, primarily in Sexy Shad and Gizzard Shad.

Good luck, and go catch some fish!

6

Take a Kid Fishing

We often think of smaller children as annoying when they're are running around your boat. But sometimes I think we've forgotten that it's the next generation that's going to keep our passion alive. We all remember how we caught that first fish and that alone was enough to hook you. Not only are we getting more youth into the sport we're teaching them about conservation, respect and the beauty of nature. So next time you head out take someone with you!

5

Repair of cork handle

I bought a Shimano Compre muskie rod 2nd hand. It had a huge gouge in the cork handle right down to the blank from being used in a rod holder of some type. I had read about a cork repair a couple of years ago and decided to give it a try. I took an old fishing rod with a cork handle and used a rotary file on it to make a couple tablespoons of cork powder. You could use a coarse file or rasp. I then mixed the cork powder with white carpenter glue and stirred it up to a paste like consistency. I used a piece of a wine cork to fill the majority of the gouge and spread the paste all over it. It took 2 days to harden completely so I could file and sand it but turned out pretty good. It is a bit darker than the original cork, but hardly noticeable from a distance. I will post a pic on here somewhere!!Pic is in forums under""other fishing gear""

Topics: rod, repair
11

simple is sometimes better

When fishing, don't be reluctant to use simple set ups!! One of my favorite tactics is using Some split-shot,a hook, and a piece of bait!!! of course, different techniques work for different situations, sometimes just a simple float is best!!! Or even just a small jig-head, i once caught a 27 inch pike on a small white jig-head and a minnow while fishing for walleye!!!

11

More Crab Bait

The items mentioned below work excellent for crab bait.
I like to use the carcass from fish previously caught and filleted, I wrap and mark them, then freeze them until needed.

Topics: Bait, crab
6

Crab Bait

You can use just about any kind of meat as crab bait. Chicken is the most popular since it is easy to find at any grocery store. Squid is excellent but is harder to come by, grocery stores usually won't have squid. Some people even use canned catfood by punching a hole in the can.

The best bait I've found are big turkey legs. The turkey meat is much greasier than the chicken and I think the crab can smell it from further away. Keep some turkey legs frozen for your next crabbing trip, then take them out a day or two before you go out. This will let the turkey meat rot a little so its juices, greases and smells will release faster when you drop it in the water.

5

Catching Crab

Things to remember when setting crab traps.
- set your traps near fresh water.
- if using square wire traps, remove the bait cage and hang your bait in the center from the top of the trap ensuring the crab can reach it.
- set your traps 50-150 feet deep.
- check your traps every couple hours, they will only hold so much. Check your regulations for size and sex limits.
- Take a jug along with you for salt water, at least 4 liters. Try cooking your crab in ocean water, you will be surprised just how much better it tastes.
- If you think the area is holding some king or snow crab but you don't have a large ring trap. Take a spreader bar or coat hanger, securely attach it to any fishing line. Attach some squid to the spreader bar using wire or zip ties. Attach enough weight to take it to the bottom. Leave it on the bottom for up to 30 minutes then real it up at an even pace. If there are any king or snow crab in the area they will clamp on to the squid and won't let go... A poor mans crab trap...lol

Topics: seafood, tips, crab
20

Small ponds can equal BIG fish

I live in an area that has lots and lots of water, from rivers, to 45,000 acre lakes, to small ponds, and everything in between. While it is easier to get onto a big lake and run to 15 different spots that may be miles from each other, sometimes the best catches come from the little 40 acre pond down the street. If you have a kayak or canoe, you may find you have the whole pond to yourself, and the fishing can be quite relaxing!

Next time you drive past "that small pond", stop and try a few casts - you may be surprised what you hook into!

Topics: Pond, Kayak, Small Pond
14

Fishing journal

I like to keep a notebook filled with information that I can reference from time to time, maybe to be successful in similar conditions or to find a pattern.

I keep notes of what lake, date, time, weather conditions, bass & catch locations, lures used, structure, cover, water temperature, depth and clarity, and any other information I think would be important.

Topics: Log, Journal, Notebook
10

Keeping your rods reels simple

So, we've all seen the Bassmasters on ESPN, and everyone seems to have 50 rods & reels ready to go. I don't know about you, but I can't afford that. I have 6 rods & reels, 4 baitcast & 2 spinning. I know that wisdom says for crankbaits you should have a 6' medium action rod with a winch for a reel and flourocarbon line to get it down to depth, and for worms you should spool mono on a 7' medium-heavy rod and baitcast reel, yada, yada, yada.

All of my baitcast outfits are 7' medium-heavy rods with 6.3:1 reels spooled wiith 12 lb. mono. All of my spinning outfits are 6'6" medium rods with mid-sized reels and 8 lb. mono. I find that having all of my rods & reels be the same allows me to get a better feeling for each rod & reel, and gives me a lot of flexibility for different fishing styles. Also, it saves a lot of money when you don't have a different rod & reel for each type of bait.

Point is, do what you can afford to do. If you can afford to have 20 rods & reels, then let that work for you. If your budget allows you to have a couple set-ups, then make the most of it. Pick out some good quality equipment and get good at using it!

Topics: Rods, Reels, Combos
11

New Hampshire Bass Fishing Reference Guide

Just a quick props - I have, study and reference Clark's Guide for bass fishing in New Hampshire. Lots of good info about lakes, plants, where to find the bass, etc. I've even taken it a step further and photocopied all of the info I need for each lake I go to and put the copies into a folder I keep on my boat.