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Crankbait fishing tips

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9
Vote

Scents that attract and repel

I went fishing one night and my friend and I used the same worms, hooks and bobbers but I was snagging fish left and right when he was barely getting bites. We started to wonder if my scent had anything to do with it. The tables had turned a few weeks later when he had been catching all the fish and I did not, so I did some research. Just like how we pinch our noses for bad smells, the same odor threshold can be said for all species of gamefish. Everything our hands come into contact with such as sun lotion, bug spray, cigarettes and our own human scent can cause fish to turn up their nose and refuse to bite. As the weather gets hotter and the bugs come out, I definitely load up on the bug spray. Even if you think your hands are clean, L-Serine (a tasteless, odorless chemical found in the skin oils of humans) will always be present on every worm, jig, or crankbait you come into contact with. Applying fish scent to your lure will not only attract the fish, but will mask or eliminate these undesirable smells. Fish can spit out a lure or bait very quickly. If the bait they are trying to ingest feels unnatural, or has a negative taste or odor, the chances of you setting the hook are very low. Applying scent will make your bait feel and taste alive, convincing the fish to hold on to the bait for a much longer time, ultimately allowing you to feel the fish first, then set the hook. Of course using scents for attractants vary depending on the type of fish. For example, when dealing with pike or muskie, scent is only useful when they have already made visual contact and are just about to strike. Scents come in a variety of packaging, but I have read more good reviews about spray bottles and will probably buy a few to try out. I wouldn’t want anything that you have to rub in since you’re trying to avoid touching it with your hands. If anyone has any recommendations or input on scents (good or bad), I’d be interested in knowing!

Topics: Scents, attractants, smells
9
Vote

Slow retrieve of lipless crankbaits

When throwing lipless crankbaits such a rattle trap, try slowing your retrieve just slow enough to 'tick' the vegetation. When the bait gets hung up, 'rip' your rod tip up and away and be ready for a strike. This method has probably caught more fish and won more money in Florida than anything else.

Topics: crankbait, bass
9
Vote

Crankbait action against structure

When fishing lipped crankbaits, try and 'bang' your bait into every piece of structure possible. Bumping your bait into a stump, dock, rock, mud bank, irrigation pipe, or anything else you can find will change the action of your bait and often trigger strikes from otherwise lethargic fish. Putting keeper fish in the boat is well worth the risk of hanging up.

Topics: crankbait, structure, bass
7
Vote

Crankbait Hooks

The hooks that come on new crankbaits, topwaters, jerkbaits, minnows, and lipless crankbaits are good, but bass have a tendency to jump and throw the lure. Switch out the original hooks with Mustad KVD Elite 2x short treble hooks - the short shank, unique bend and strong wire almost guarantee no lost fish. I've hooked over two-dozen bass in three tournaments this year, most have jumped, and none have come off! Plus, with the shorter shank, you can usually upsize by one size (if the original hook is a size 4, you can usually get away with putting a size 2 Mustad on).

Topics: Hooks, crankbaits, treble hooks
17
Vote

Using marker bouys on points

Bass, and probably other gamefish, congregate along points, and especially cover and secondary structure along the points. The system is simple, takes a couple of minutes to set up, and you can spend a few hours fishing one point a nd catching serious amounts of bass.

First, determine the points. In early spring and late fall, find steep sloping points, while long, slow-sloping points are generally better from late-spring to early fall. A good topo or bathymetric map, or GPS map will show these. Once you've chosen the point, begin to go over it with your depth finder. Look for tell-tale fish arches, or baitfish schools, to determine where you should start. Whatever your target depth, toss a marker bouy a few feet shallower on the main point. Work along the point until you come to the first big drop off into deep water, then toss a marker bouy a few feet deeper on the main point. These two markers should be the same color. While you're scouting the point, when you see a key piece of cover, something different in the bottom structure, or something interesting, throw a different colored marker bouy near it.

Begin by lining up along the point, starting shallow, and fan casting the entire point. Work deeper, then shallower. Use repeated casts from different angles at all key pieces of cover and secondary structure. Crankbaits are good to use for scouting lures, and once you find the bass, pick the area apart with a variety of presentations.

It could literally take you 4 hours to fish a decent point, and I've pulled as many as two dozen keepers off one point from all different depths. Remember to use the proper color, based on conditions, forage and activity level, and the proper depth for your crankbaits. If the point drops from, say, 7 feet down to 13 feet, cast the shallow end with a crankbait that dives to 9 or 10 feet, and then work the deeper end with a crankbait that'll dive to 15 feet. Stay with it, and you'll find the bass.

Topics: Points, marker, bouy
13
Vote

Color-coding your rods

This may just be overthinking common sense, but if you have a lot of rods rigged differently, and keep them stored in a rod locker, I've found that color-coding to identify which is which saves a lot of time searching or trying to remember what rods go where.

The system is simple - put a small piece of colored electrical tape (different colors for each type)on each rod near the handle, and make a small laminated chart that you can stick to the inside cover of the rod locker to identify the rods. Some examples:

Red = Crankbait
Green = Spinnerbait
Blue = Flippin'
Orange = Jigs/worms
etc., etc., etc.

Find a system that works for you and help get yourself organized. For fun fishing, it isn't such a big deal, but to make the most of your time on the water, and especially for tournament fishing, if you can spare yourself the time and frustration of digging for a rod, the better the day will go.

Topics: Rod, Colorcoded
10
Vote

Runnin N Gunnin

There's something to be said for standing on a bank and fishing while relaxing, or trolling along a lake, but most of the time, I prefer to "run n' gun". Basically, this means constantly moving and going from place to place at adecent pace while using reaction or fast-moving baits. You won't catch 20-30 fish (usually), but the 7 or 10 that you do get are usually the 7 or 10 most aggressive fish.

The key is to find an area that will likely produce, like a point, weedbed, or are with lots of different cover and structure, and have a few rods rigged up - medium crankbait, deep crankbait and a spinnerbait. Work through the area, not stopping, and moving from spot-to-spot while making casts along the structure and to cover.

If you do this every time, you get worn out quickly, but if you only have a few hours to be on the water, this is a great way to make the most of it.

Topics: Crankbait, Spinnerbait
11
Vote

Mono vs. Fluorocarbon

OK, I'll start by saying I don't know a lot about braid or the superlines, because I've never used them. There may be applications where braid or another superline work better than mono or fluorocarbon, but I'm afraid to leave my "line comfort zone". Here's a little breakdown of the differences between mono and fluorocarbon (from manufacturer specs and my experience):

MONOFILAMENT
• Limp
• Low Memory
• Good Strength vs. Diameter
• Considerable Stretch
• Low Sensitivity
• Good Abrasion Resistance
• Good Knot Strength
• Low Visibility
• Floats


FLOUROCARBON
• Stiff
• Moderate Memory
• Good Strength vs. Diameter
• Low Stretch
• Very Good Sensitivity
• High Abrasion Resistance
• Good Knot Strength
• Very Low Visibility
• Sinks

PLASTICS/JIGS/TUBES
• Fluorocarbon Is Best
• Monofilament Is OK

CRANKBAITS (SHALLOW, MEDIUM, DEEP)
• Fluorocarbon Is Best
• Monofilament Is OK

LIPLESS CRANKBAITS
• Monofilament Is Best
• Fluorocarbon Is OK

SPINNERBAITS/BUZZBAITS
• Monofilament Is Best
• Fluorocarbon Is OK

SWIMBAITS
• Fluorocarbon Is Best
• Monofilament Is OK

TOPWATERS
• Monofilament Is Best
• Fluorocarbon Is Not Recommended (Sinks)

I hope this helps, as I have found that having the differences laid out for me really helps to understand the little nuances each style of line has. Remember to use the smallest line that is practical and it's worth it to spend a little extra - paying $9.99 for good line vs. paying $2.99 for store-brand line and losing a handful of $5 lures makes no sense.

Topics: Line, Fluorocarbon, Mono
8
Vote

Rod, reel line selection

OK, back to basics. I know I posted a tip about making sense of rods & reels and making things less complicated. Absolutely an essential part of fishing. This year I've been doing some experimenting with my tackle, and I've gotten to this point:

7' MH baitcast with 12 lb. mono for bigger worms, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, lipless crankbaits, and topwaters

7' M baitcast with 12 lb. fluorocarbon for crankbaits, swimbaits, jigs, and tubes

6'6" M spinning with 8 lb. mono for worms, spoons, spinners, and all finesse tactics

I hope my homework helps you out, and as I test more ideas I'll post them to help get things going. Just remember, do what you find works well, and never stop experimenting and learning!

Topics: Rods, Reels, lines
15
Vote

Go Silent

OK, so if you haven't figured out by my catches, I'm a big crankbait guy. I love to fish crankbaits and cover a lot of water - runnin' and gunnin' can be very fun, or very frustrating, depending on how you look at it. Anyway, there are times, through trial and error, that a silent approach is better than a standard "rattle-y" approach. If you're throwing crankbaits in every direction and at all the cover you can see, and you're still not getting bit, switch to a non-rattling or silent crankbait. Sometimes just the little difference in noise makes all the difference.

If you're wondering, I fish with Strike King Pro Model Series 1-6, and the Silent Stalker versions of the same sizes, primarily in Sexy Shad and Gizzard Shad.

Good luck, and go catch some fish!

Topics: Silent, Crankbait, Bass, Strike King
10
Vote

Keeping your rods reels simple

So, we've all seen the Bassmasters on ESPN, and everyone seems to have 50 rods & reels ready to go. I don't know about you, but I can't afford that. I have 6 rods & reels, 4 baitcast & 2 spinning. I know that wisdom says for crankbaits you should have a 6' medium action rod with a winch for a reel and flourocarbon line to get it down to depth, and for worms you should spool mono on a 7' medium-heavy rod and baitcast reel, yada, yada, yada.

All of my baitcast outfits are 7' medium-heavy rods with 6.3:1 reels spooled wiith 12 lb. mono. All of my spinning outfits are 6'6" medium rods with mid-sized reels and 8 lb. mono. I find that having all of my rods & reels be the same allows me to get a better feeling for each rod & reel, and gives me a lot of flexibility for different fishing styles. Also, it saves a lot of money when you don't have a different rod & reel for each type of bait.

Point is, do what you can afford to do. If you can afford to have 20 rods & reels, then let that work for you. If your budget allows you to have a couple set-ups, then make the most of it. Pick out some good quality equipment and get good at using it!

Topics: Rods, Reels, Combos
12
Vote

Direct tie or swivels

Do you tie directly to the lure or clip on a snap swivel? Depends. There are times when a snap swivel is a necessity - like fishing spoons with a spinning reel. Sometimes, tieing directly to the lure is needed, such as with jigs or topwaters when you you don't want the action affected by the extra weight of the snap swivel. However, when I fish crankbaits or a select few topwaters and jerkbaits, I use a size 1 Fast Snap. They don't really affect lure action, in fact they help improve lure action on some retreives, and they make changing out lure a "snap".

Topics: Snaps, Swivels, Lures
11
Vote

First rigs of the spring season

Up here in the northeast, fishing doesn't usually start until at least the third week of March, usually the first or second week of April (we have hard water). Anyway, once the ice goes away, that leaves the lake temps around 35-40 degree range. Here's what I keep tied on my rods for the first few trips of the spring (then I'll change up depending on what pattern I find):

1. Strike King Series 6 in Gizzard Shad
2. Strike King Pro Series Spinnerbait 3/8 oz. in Sexy Shad
3. Strike King Red Eye Shad 1/2 oz. in Chrome/Black Back
4. Strike King Wild Shiner Suspending Jerkbait in Sexy Shad
5. Strike King Wild Shiner Suspending Jerkbait in Chrome
6. Berkley Gripper Jig 3/8 oz. in Green Craw

I make color adjsutments based on water clarity, but for the most part, you want a more natural color base in clear water and go a little darker or brighter in stained or muddy water.

Topics: Spring, Bass, Crankbait, Jerkbait
21
Vote

Offshore Structure - Lake Winnipesaukee

OK, I'm guessing three more weeks and the ice will be gone. Tht means that spring bass fishing will be upon us. But what about when the spawn ends, and it gets into mid-to-late June, and the bass seem to disappear from the shallows? If you're on the big lake, try these two spots (please leave a few for me):

1. There is a nice hump between Eagle Island and Stonedam Island in Meredith - lots of rocks, tops out at about 5 feet, one side slopes gradually, the other has a quick drop. Awesome for summer smallmouth;

2. Another nice sunken ridge between Pine Island and Three Mile Island in Center Harbor. Tops off around 10 feet, with steep slopes and a gradual ridge drop off both sides.

Try the 6-8 foot depth range around some structure whn the weather has been stable, a little ahllower if it's overcast, and go right down to about 18 feet after a cold front blows through. Cover the whole area with crankbaits, and you won't be disappointed!

Topics: Bass, humps, offshore, Lake Winnipesaukee
15
Vote

Spring is here Start thinking about the pre-pre-spawn...

Well, the ice will all be gone in another month, and as soon as the lakes open up, you can expect to find me (along with a bunch of other guys) out on the water chasing down some late winter/early spring bass. As the temperatures hit 40-45 degrees, the bass will start to move around a little, and after a couple of warm days, you'll find them coming up on shallow flats to feed. Just make sure to look for shallow flats, near cover, and close to deeper water - a quick break into the depths usually holds more fish. Once the temps reach above 50 degrees, the fish will start to stay a little shallower, cruising around for a quick meal. 55-60 degrees and they're almost into spawn mode.

Slow-rolling spinnerbaits, jigs, carloina rigs, and big deep-diving crankbaits are great early spring baits. Once you start to see the vegetation returning, especially in water 7-10 feet deep and near a breakline, lipless crankbaits are almost unmatched, especially on warm days.

Remember, warm sunny days will draw the bass shallow, and once the weather stays warm, overcast days with a little breeze are the most productive. 3 days before to 10 days after th full moon seem to yield the most big fish, and remember to tune your lure size, color and action to look as natural as possible when the bass are inactive/sluggish.

Topics: Bass, Spring, Lures, Season, Jig, Crankbait, Spinnerbait