x

Join the coolest online fishing community. FREE!

  • Get the latest local fishing reports
  • Find all the best fishing spots
  • Show off your catches, photos and videos
  • Read and share top fishing tips
  • Meet other anglers in your area
  • And it's all FREE!
Sign in with Facebook
or
Create your account

Tubes fishing tips

Add a new tip View Tips By Topic
8
Vote

Alternative way to rig a tube - with a leadhead and rattle

Just a quick tip for another way to rig a tube with a rattle - Bass Pro Shops sells this little roundish rattle for tubes (XPS Tube Rattle), and I use the Bass Pro Shops tender tube head in 1/8 oz. or 1/4 oz., depending on the depth and conditions. First, push the tube rattle up in the tube, then insert the tube head, and push the eyelet through the tube where it stops. The rattle sometimes adds just enough extra to the tube to get more strikes, and by having the jig head back a little from the end of the tube, it helicopters down in a more random manner, which also gets more strikes. You can also rig it this way without the rattle, just leave 1/4"-1/2" of space between the jig head and the end of the tube.

Topics: Tubes, Rattles
8
Vote

Tube Colour in Dirty Water

When fishing tube baits in dirty or dingy water, the use of darker colours is best, but I like to add rattles inside the tube to help draw attention to the bait. Also, using larger or magnum sized tubes help to provide a bigger profile and make the bait easier for fish to find. The addition of a touch of scent inside the tube doesn't hurt.

Topics: Lures, Colors, Presentation, Tubes
11
Vote

Mono vs. Fluorocarbon

OK, I'll start by saying I don't know a lot about braid or the superlines, because I've never used them. There may be applications where braid or another superline work better than mono or fluorocarbon, but I'm afraid to leave my "line comfort zone". Here's a little breakdown of the differences between mono and fluorocarbon (from manufacturer specs and my experience):

MONOFILAMENT
• Limp
• Low Memory
• Good Strength vs. Diameter
• Considerable Stretch
• Low Sensitivity
• Good Abrasion Resistance
• Good Knot Strength
• Low Visibility
• Floats


FLOUROCARBON
• Stiff
• Moderate Memory
• Good Strength vs. Diameter
• Low Stretch
• Very Good Sensitivity
• High Abrasion Resistance
• Good Knot Strength
• Very Low Visibility
• Sinks

PLASTICS/JIGS/TUBES
• Fluorocarbon Is Best
• Monofilament Is OK

CRANKBAITS (SHALLOW, MEDIUM, DEEP)
• Fluorocarbon Is Best
• Monofilament Is OK

LIPLESS CRANKBAITS
• Monofilament Is Best
• Fluorocarbon Is OK

SPINNERBAITS/BUZZBAITS
• Monofilament Is Best
• Fluorocarbon Is OK

SWIMBAITS
• Fluorocarbon Is Best
• Monofilament Is OK

TOPWATERS
• Monofilament Is Best
• Fluorocarbon Is Not Recommended (Sinks)

I hope this helps, as I have found that having the differences laid out for me really helps to understand the little nuances each style of line has. Remember to use the smallest line that is practical and it's worth it to spend a little extra - paying $9.99 for good line vs. paying $2.99 for store-brand line and losing a handful of $5 lures makes no sense.

Topics: Line, Fluorocarbon, Mono
8
Vote

Rod, reel line selection

OK, back to basics. I know I posted a tip about making sense of rods & reels and making things less complicated. Absolutely an essential part of fishing. This year I've been doing some experimenting with my tackle, and I've gotten to this point:

7' MH baitcast with 12 lb. mono for bigger worms, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, lipless crankbaits, and topwaters

7' M baitcast with 12 lb. fluorocarbon for crankbaits, swimbaits, jigs, and tubes

6'6" M spinning with 8 lb. mono for worms, spoons, spinners, and all finesse tactics

I hope my homework helps you out, and as I test more ideas I'll post them to help get things going. Just remember, do what you find works well, and never stop experimenting and learning!

Topics: Rods, Reels, lines